Southwest France - Moving on to Collias

After a fairly meagre breakfast of baguette, butter, croissant, orange juice and coffee, we were driven by our host to the same crossroads where we'd been so thwarted the day before.  Uneventful walk upwards past vineyards, along the boundary between cultivated fields and forest.

Grapes seem to be the primary crop grown here.  

Then upward through the forest to a strange junction - well, the junction itself wasn't strange.  But the very large concrete table was strangely out of place, with about a dozen white plastic garden chairs. And, incidentally, the only place where we encountered lots of litter:  empty sweets containers.

This very large concrete table made for a fine resting place and a chance to review the topo map (Pat) and cull some photos (Barb).

Pretty soon we had our first view down into the gorge of the place called "Baume" with a large mill on the right (opposite) bank and a small ruined mill, chapel, hermitage and Grotte [a large cave] on the left bank. After the zig-zag hike down the cliff and along the limestone river banks to reach the chapel and the hermitage, there is a long and modern stairs.  On the left bank is La Chapelle St. Veremede, Grotte de la Baume, and the ruins of the mill (Moulin de la Barque, damaged in the Sept. 2002 flood).

On the left  the diagonal white line marks the stairs from the river to the hermitage and chapel.

Closer to the hermitage and chapel.  The entrance to the Grotte is visible as well.

The cliff is undercut here, where the chapel and the hermitage are; a walkway and railing bend around the cliff and lead to the Grotte.

The hermitage is cut into the cliff; the chapel is the little free-standing building.  The doors to both are barred and locked.  Inside the chapel  through the bars I could see a cheap modern statue of Our Lady.

There's a carving into the rock that (I think) states that this cleft in the rock was sanctified by St. Veredeme who made it his hermitage.

Something tells me that this notice may have modern origins.

The Grotte was, as described, very very dark.  Pitch black. About 150 meters. Goes through the cliff from one side of the cliff to the other. And uphill. What the notes did not describe was the fact that the surface underfoot was very uneven and dusty, and the Grotte sloped steeply upward.  The hike notes state that the Grotte was occupied in Paleolithic times.  Strong flash light required. The first hint of sunlight was most welcome.

This is Pat at the exit from La Grotte de la Baume. I was terrified the whole time - don't like caves and won't willingly visit one.  This was an exception, and I was most happy to be out in the sunlight again with my friends..

However, Barbara, ahead of me, indicated a new problem.  The ledge outside the grotto was probably about 4 feet wide then dropped steeply down maybe 9-10 feet to a footpath.  This area is so arid that the soil is more like dust.  We managed to lower ourselves with the aid of trekking poles.

Zig-zag down to the river, which here was well watered.  Several beached kayaks suggested its popularity. I was confused by the lack of waymarks (were we supposed to be somewhere else?), and asked a kayaker for directions to Collias.  He indicated to the left and off we went.  Walking on the limestone banks of the river was decidedly more pleasant than on the "classic denuded limestone" of yesterday.

We knew we were okay when we began again to spot the white/red GR waymarks amid the rocks and reeds.

And many cliffs behind us, we finally reached the Collias Bridge, with many kayak rental stalls where we each refreshed ourselves with a cold drink..  To get to Maison de Leonie, we walked up hill several blocks to the correct street.  Behind a very large electronic gate law was this most attractive B&B.

The courtward of La Maison de Leonie. There is a pool, but it was closed for the season.

To sweeten the experience, my room bore not a number but my granddaughter's name, Gabrielle.

Our hostess, Marie-Agnes, was very accommodating.  Her dinner was huge:  a beef shank with potatoes, tomato and artichoke heart.  All of that followed a first course of breaded filets of sardine with what the English call "rocket".  Dessert was apple tart and ice cream.  It all hit the spot.

Slept very very soundly in the quiet, dark, elegant room.

Note, please, the hiking gear & clothing awaiting me on the chair.