Monday, October 28, 2013

Southwest France - day two of WCC13

Sept. 17 - - This was a day I was eager for.  After four early presentations at the conference, we boarded the coach and headed off to view and learn about the water feeder system into the St. Ferreol Reservoir at Revel.  The Reservoir was created by a very long (780 m.) cut stone and concrete dam supported by a high (35 m.) earthen dam covered (and protected) by trees.  Those trees by law cannot be cut.
At the entrance to S. Ferreol's building.

A very good, clear guide led us up to the top of the dam.  As we stood by a sluice gate, she delivered a rather long history and detailed explanation of what Riquet built and why the original construction was inadequate.
Next to our guide is the sluice gate, behind her is the dam with its wide walkway, the great reservoir, and in the far distance the Montaigne Noir.
Riquet's accomplishment was so inadequate that Vauban later corrected the situation by making the dam several meters higher.  We saw the sluices, the flood spillway, and, in addition, noted three mountain crests that make up part of the Montaigne Noir.  I hope my photos of them in the mist are adequate.
From the sluice in the prior photo, water flowed down and out here. 
Also at that level were two plaques, one honoring Pierre Paul Riquet, the ingenious tax collector who persuaded the French King, Louis XIV (through his minister, Colbert) that the canal could be constructed.
Why was there a plaque honoring Thomas Jefferson?  How's your French?
A symbol of Franco-American friendship.  In addition to his political roles (Ambassador, President), he traveled through French territories and promoted French patrimony, including architecture, "terroir", culture, played a key role in the French constitution and in the Declaration of the Rights of Man and of Citizens.  Erected on the 220th anniversary of the French Revolution.
Another sight to see was not created by Riquet but was mid-19th century - - a fountain that shot about 25-30 meters up.  Kind of like a manmade "Old Faithful".
The fountain was surrounded by too many leafy trees!
The site also contains an interesting shop and museum.  One could buy, among other things, a map book of the Canal du Midi similar to mine from 2009.  Of interest to me in the museum were some of the tools used in the 17th century:  a shovel, a basket woven of reeds or vines for carrying away soil (no wheelbarrows then), a rudiemntary and odd-looking early surveyor's tool.  This is all housed in the former residence of VNF personnel.
One wonders if Riquet lived here while the reservoir was being constructed.
Then back on the bus to drive to Castelnaudary for lunch.  As we drove into the large parking lot next to the meeting place, I noticed the store "Pays d'Oc" that sold us some cheese, milk, yogurt in 2009. Unfortunately there are no photos from the Castelnaudary stop.

At long last we set off to locate and explore the so-called summit at Naurouze. This was where it all came together; the various rigoles fed into St. Ferreol, and from thence down to Naurouze's octagonal basin (now an octagonal channel) and into the canal feeder.
This structure was built at the same time as the canal and allows surplus water to flow towards Fresquel, the basin of Naurouze. Gates serve to modulate the quantity of surplus water as well as for the emptying of the basin. Today siphons on the left bank of the epanchoir, automatically regulated the level of the basin to a determined height.
I could finally see the last element of feeder water flowing into the Canal du Midi, and could understand much better the entire system of collecting water from various mountain streams and directing them into the channel for delivery to the canal at its summit level at Naurouze.
Although this sketch from 1697 shows the basin, what now exists is an octagonal channel. Water flows now from a point between the upper Ocean Lock and the lower Mediterranean Lock.
Flowing out of the basin toward the Canal du Midi.
Kind of like a "continental divide" - the summit marked the high point in the canal from where water flowed either to the Atlantic or to the Mediterranean.
The channel on the left is incoming water; the channel on the right is the Canal du Midi, which continues in two directions, east to the Mediterranean and west to the Atlantic.


From this watershed, the water flows through those concrete slopes and flows either left to the Mediterranean Sea or right toward the Atlantic Ocean.
That boat is headed "up" the Canal du Midi toward the Ocean Lock and the city of Toulouse.
This day, combined with the pre-conference visits and the places we went on Sunday and Monday, completed my visit to and experience with the Canal du Midi.
The title translates to:  The Parting of the Waters.  I.e., The Watershed
Back in Toulouse, we had time to rest a bit and change clothes for the Mayor's reception in the city hall (i.e., Le Capitole).  The building is a very large 17th or 18th century structure.  The reception was up a grand flight of stairs, in the "Salle des Illustres" a long high-ceilinged room that reminded me of the very long Hall of Battles at Versailles chateau, with enormous paintings on every wall.
I believe that on the platform are two city councilwomen, the mayor and deputy mayor of Toulouse, a man with important connections to the Canal du Midi, and David Ballinger, who is President of IWI.  Our translator/guide, David Edwards-May, is standing to the left.
The most dramatic of the paintings memorialized the visit to Toulouse by Pope Urban V, where the local count, Raymond de St-Gilles was undertaking the first Crusade to "liberate" Jerusalem from the "Infidels". Many speeches in French by the local officials, all of which were translated by David Edwards-May. The local version of Champagne and hors d'oeuvres were abundant.
Canapes in the great hall, with glasses waiting to be filled.
This fellow used three different bottles for each glass - why?


We four women (me, Kerry, Pat, Barb) dined together in Pizza Pino nearby - of three cafes next to each other, it was the busiest.  And the reason it was the busiest:  good food, not expensive, casual atmosphere, and very prompt service. And it was a delight to get into my bed at a reasonable hour.

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