Saturday, August 28, 2010

Globus tour, June 17 - Sunday in Sicily

Just as the ferry entered Palermo harbor at sunrise, we were up to see the dawn.  We left our cabin, exited the ferry, and waited for the bus to drive off.  From the bus we went to our hotel but for breakfast only, not for checking in.  Then off to Mondello, a beach town near Mont Pellegrino, and then back to visit the 12th century Norman cathedral - well, we just looked at it from the large square in front. 
Archbishop's Palace (left of photo)
Norman cathedral (right of photo)

The Norman cathedral










We visited instead the Cappella Paletina, built by another Norman, King Robert II.  The chapel incorporated Arabic and Islamic designs on the floor and lower walls, and Byzantine Old and New Testament scenes on the upper walls.  this is all in brilliantly colored mosaic, with gold mosaic background.
Cappella Palatina (the Palatine Chapel)

We also saw -- and this by accident - - a special exhibit on Sicily's history as shown through art and artifacts.  It commemorated the 60th anniversary of the first meeting of Sicily's parliament in June 1947.  It seems that this antedated the Italian parliament, resulting in Sicily having some special rules - like being able to control its own industry and education.

North toward Palermo and the sea
The town of Monreale is on a mountain top not far South from Palermo. It is mostly famous for its 12th century cathedral and cloister, also built by Normans, this time William I and II. 

Like the Capella Palestrina, the interior is covered with mosaics, Islamic geometric and arabesque designs on lower walls and the entire Old and New testament stories on the upper, from Genesis through the life and death of Jesus.  It is rather spectacular, what I could see of it.  The church is not well illuminated and Mass was being said while we were there.  So I could not manage a decent photograph.  However, it has an enormous 1500-pipe organ whose triumphant sounds at the conclusion of the Mass made every molecule in my body tingle.

There is a sweet little square next to the cathedral, with fountain, benches, shrubs, and palm trees. 

Lovely square in Monreale









Up the street is a great pastry shop for canolli.  And around the cathedral from the fountain is the Benedictine cloister.  Elisabeta, the guide, told me about it, and I am so glad I visited it.  The interior of the cloister is a large open grassy square surrounded by a loggia whose slim double columns and capitals are each carved differently, with stripes or vines, animals or birds, faces or odd and imaginary creatures.

Beautiful cloister, with carved double columns
 I enjoyed it immensely, such that Joe had to come in and haul me out because the group was heading toward the parking area.

Liborio is such a good driver.  As we were about to leave the parking lot, the exit was blocked by a minor car crash.  He maneuvered the great bus around 180 degrees and we left the parking lot through its entrance.

Harbor-side park in Palermo
Palermo remains mostly a blur.  What I learned is that next to our hotel is a botanic garden of sorts, with large areas of shade trees.  In front of our hotel is a harbor-side park that runs for several city blocks.  In it we saw no "Inglese" or other tourists, but lots of local people enjoyed a quiet Sunday afternoon, fishing, kicking a soccer ball, bicycling, flying kites, napping beneath trees.

I swam a bit in the hotel's pool.  The others there were three or four  men, fully clothed, napping on chaises beneath shady trees.  And thanks to the hotel's internet, I could confirm that we could stay at our favorite hotel in Paris on our return.  I hate not knowing that I have a place to lay my head.

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