An Organic Farmers Market in Paris



Farmers' markets fascinate me. The idea that a kind of society has grown up linking urban dwellers with food growers and producers. The weekly markets have drawn me since I first learned of the one at Arlington's courthouse area several decades ago. So as I began to read about the organic market on Blvd. Raspail in France, and realized that it is almost next door to the familiar apartment, I promised myself that I'd find it. And this summer I persuaded my friends that it would be a treat.   Just a few blocks from where we were staying.

What follows are a series of photographs that I took in late June this year.

my friends, from right to left:  Barbara, Debbie, Ashley, 3 generations, 1 family

fetching veggie presentation

these are all soft cheeses

"try this fresh apricot"

many sizes and varieties of honey

a delight to lovers of confiture (that's jam, to Americans)

someone with a refined sense of style and order did this

no, despite my love of charcuterie, I bought nothing here

My thought on taking this pic:  Ham and Eggs, anyone?

olives, artichoke hearts, peppers, garlic cloves, cheese  . . .

hothouse roses



She has a very large shopping cart.



apple juices (not cider, which would be alcoholic)



on the right:  two cider vintages:  2010 and 2008



Arlington's market does not see such elegance

the Jack Daniels sweatshirt made one feel more at home

A glimpse of Versailles

In the South Parterre, behind the Chateau

There are a hundred and more things about Versailles that people really like.  Most important to me are the fountains, but only when the water flows.  Because the pumping mechanisms are several hundred years old, that doesn't happen every day.  Just in the summer for a few hours on selected days.  I made sure that my friends and I made it out there at the right time.


The sun rises when Apollo's horses arise from the sea.  He is, after all, the Sun-God.

 -

Apollo in his chariot rises from the water.




A pretty fountain near the Latona fountain.



Two of the three fountains in the Bosquet.



There are some great figures under all that water.



very cool place for those statues; I wish I could join them.

Latona was mother to Apollo & Diana; she appealed to Zeus when the peasantry was mocking her kiddies.  Zeus turned the peasants into frogs and turtles, and this fountain depicts the change.

One additional aspect of the fountains in summer:  Recorded music is piped into the area; and it's all music from the 17th and 18th centuries when the gardens and fountains were constructed.

A week after Derecho

Last Friday, June 29th, I returned from a week spent in Paris.  Great to be home, despite the amazing heat.  Being quite tired, I went to bed early and, it seems, slept through the incredible storm that messed up the subsequent days for a lot of people.  Joe and I were among the very fortunate; we lost no power and no damage to our beautiful maple tree.  The butterfly bush was cut in half.  That was all. 

Discordant circumstances in my Westover neighborhood (in Arlington, VA):  the Post Office was lit and it was cool, but they could only sell stamps; the system for calculating postage, processing passport orders, and so forth were impossible.  Ayers General Store had lights but no air conditioning, its register was a bit balky and no credit or debit cards could be used.The Safeway had no ice and very little bottled water; at the checkout, only cash and credit cards could be used, no debit cards, and NO cash back for anything.  On Lee Highway, of the four gas stations between George Mason Drive and Lexington Street, only one was open and its line stretched back to Lexington Street.

Having heard and read reports of the tempest, I expected to see lots and lots of damage in my heavily-treed neighborhood.  This is an old suburb (my neighborhood was platted in the 1930s.  Nearly every street has utility poles and a confusing web of lines).  I was surprised to see less damage than I expected.  Still, there were some whole trees that by some miracle fell only in yards, on fences, into the street, and very few on houses.   In the 1700 block of Longfellow, one tall poplar lay across the front yard and had brought down lots of wires and a utility pole; yellow "caution" tape stretched across the road because, I assume, the wires were hot.  Farther on, along Patrick Henry Drive, another section had yellow tape stretched across the road - - more downed wires along with trees and branches.

By Sunday morning, many many people had cleaned up the downed branches (except where they entangled with utility wires) -- how do you tell which wires are electric and which are cable and which are phone - - and are all dangerous?  I drove to the C &O Canal's Swains Lock (where I'm the Canal Steward), and saw that the Park Service has cleared the towpath there.  There were many large branches that had fallen along the campground's perimeter.  In the parking lot behind the lockhouse, what appears to be several small trees fell from the hillside across the gravel.   Our Canal Stewards plan to clean that up on Friday.

Back home, one very large tree on No. 11th Street is now doomed.  Joe and I used to walk past it frequently, and we'd marvel that its double trunk leaned far over the road, casting the road into deep shade.  And, I admit, we'd walk a bit more quickly past, fearing that its great size would bring it down.  No longer will we do so.  It's now about one-third the size it was last month.  And the remainder will be removed shortly.  

The Washington Post article yesterday described this as having an 18-foot circumference and an age of 250+.  It was a huge tree squeezed between the sidewalk and the street.

The larger part of the trunk broke away and fell across the road, damaging some fences on the opposite side.  A portion of it damaged the roof of a nearby house.  Below is an image of the tree pre-derecho:


Rest in peace, beautiful tree. 



Paris, June 2012

If I don't make a really quick list, I won't remember what we did.

June 21 - depart on AF 0027,  Dulles Airport for Paris with Barbara, Debbie, Ashley
June 22 - Arrived Charles de Gaulle Aeroport, Paris; after baggage claim, customs & immigration, got euros from an ATM and bought Paris Museum Pass; and taxi into the city.
         Met property manager at the apt; apt. was cleaned and ready for us = yippee:  we could take possession and grab a nap, have tea/coffee/pastry at Bread & Roses, visit Lux. Gard. & grocery store, explore neighborhood.
         Dinner =  Chez Clement
June 23 -  Bread &  Roses not open; another one was; bought variety of pastries. 
         Figured out how to get RER via Metro (Solferino station); RER to Versailles, walk all over the gardens with fountains flowing, quiche at Angelina cafe, Petit Trianon, M/A's little village, lemon sorbet (v. sour) and walk up to Three Basins, then to Lantone for more fountains, then into the chateau and walked, walked, walked through throngs, ending at another Angelina's for something to drink; RER back to Paris.
         Dinner = ?? the place where B & A had vegan pasta??
June 24 - This morning = rain
         organic farmers market a few blocks down bvd Raspail - many photos
         Metro to Concorde, transfer to Louvre, entered through Carousel; museum pass saved time, if not $$
         The big three:  Winged Victory, Mona Lisa, Venus de Milo, with lots of other paintings and lots of crowds in between; look for cafe, another line but food was plentiful (beef & veg wok with green beans; wine).  Headed to the St. Anne exhibit (separate ticket) and was overwhelmed by the exhaustive scholarship.  Met Barb 4:30 at Info Dsk (1/2 hr. late!); note: PO was open and we each bought stamps for postcards.
         Dinner = Leon de Bruxelles; quiche?
June 25 = Paris skies change constantly
                sunny-cloudy-partly cloudy/partly-sunny.
        Time for a long walk down rue Bonaparte, pop into St. Sulpice, window shop at YSL, on down to the river, then walk along the quai to Pont Neuf, which we crossed to island.
        Notre Dame tower climb after sandwich & drinks in the park = long wait in line, then 400 steps up to enjoy to view and 400 more back down (claustrophobic spiral stairs that are 800 years old!)
        Walk around inside the cathedral; light candle.
        Visit to Ile St-Louis looking for ice cream (Bertillion closed); Pom' Cannelle = nice and tasty and cool.
         Home via Cite metro station to ?? and then ??
        Dinner =  LaMamma so Ashley could have pizza? Salade Caprese & Bruschetta for me. It's a nice place - must remember it on rue Vavin.
June 26 = Rain again
       More coffee and pastry for bkfst?
       Metro to Musee d'Orsay where HUGE crowd awaited; bare semblance of a line, pushers-in unsuccessful. Headed straight for "VanGogh & Gauguin in Arles" which had dozens of works by VG and fewer by G; managed to avoid the awful beaux arts sculptures; 5th level had wonderful Imp. & Post-Imp ptgs. Exh. on "Misia", an arts patron of last century. No photos allowed anywhere except in the cafe; corner table = quieter; c/n recall what I ate.
        Batobus = boat that makes 8 stops up and down the Seine; took it to Jardin des Plantes which is lovely, but all bldgs. closed on Tuesdays!!, so back to the boat to Louvre stop, bus to Opera, and walked around to Galeries Lafayette to see the stained glass dome, the cafe, the rooftop views, but we were too late for food and roof. Very nice boat trip down river to Eiffel, turn round, and back to Orsay & metro home.
         Dinner = Cafe Solferino - huge salade nicoise
June 27 =  Bright morning.
        Day for bus rides:  Musee Rodin closed for renovation except some rooms and garden and marbles in the chapel.  Such a beautiful garden, but so few sculptures on display there.  Tea in the garden cafe.
        Eiffel Tower:  long line for tickets because only one Pilier had working elevator; Barb et al got in line and I scouted places for lunch then waited in the shade for nearly 3 hours but they were in line for 2 in the heat and sun.  lunch very close by.
        bus to Arc de Triomphe just in time for the military ceremony for soldat inconnu; up all the stairs to the top and back down again.  Bus back to Montparnasse and sales at Monoprix (shirts for boys)
        Dinner = not, because lunch was around 4:30
June 28 = hot & hazy
        today was to be sort of unplanned & lazy - Metro to Abbesses for Sacre Coeur = MORE stairs to the surface.  Funiculare up the hill, and more stairs to the basilica.  Mass in progress so we sat in a pew til ended. No photos allowed inside. 
        Walked round to Place de Tertre and easel artists (wanted Ashley to see that), then down more stairs looking for cafe.  Nice one 1 block from Metro; had full meal:  onion soup, chicken & potatoes; choc. mousse.
       Into Lux. Gard. for a tour:  carousel, kiddy playground, petanque players, bee hives, espaliered fruit trees, long lawns near Obervatory, out to bvd. St-Michel for ice cream, Medici fountain, and exit to rue Vavin, window shopping here.
       Dinner = La Mamma again; she spoke english which startled everyone.  Tortelini or tagliatelli very good
       back at apt = time to pack everything and figure out how to get to CDG (taxi stand on rue Raspail)
June 29 = drizzly rain
       up at 6 am, eat everything that's left in fridge; head out and flag taxi; figure out how to navigate CDG for boarding pass,  check baggage, find gate, long wait, long plane ride, finally back in USA.
       Pick up by Joe; home and throw everything in the laundry basket, take long nap, talk with Joe, sleep through the tempest.

Have two sets of photos on flickr.com

A Thing for Paris . . .



Quintessential Paris = A mime who sang nonsense operatic arias beneath the Eiffel Tower.

 I seem to have a thing for Paris.  This summer I'll go again, for a week.  I'm accompanying my friend Barbara and her daughter Debby and granddaughter Ashley.  The trip is a reward to Ashley who's just finishing high school and has been accepted to a good college.  This will be interesting.  I'm virtually a stranger to two of us, and a good friend to their relative.  But the three of them have such close ties.  I may well be just a kind of tour guide/translator. 

But it's time to be spent in Paris - a place I've come to really really enjoy.  To me the city is not one of glamour but of grace.  Architecturally, with its wide boulevards and mid-size 19th-century buildings,

and its many parks, both large and handkerchief size, and trees that line so many streets, it is calming and graceful.  Despite the awful traffic. 

Nearly rush hours on the Champs Elysees (viewed from the top of the Arc de Triomphe).

And the many cafe tables and chairs lining the sidewalks make the city seem so much more friendly - - seeing folks enjoying conversation and drinks, or perusing a newspaper, or just watching the passing scene.  Taking possession of one of those tables for a long afternoon, sipping at a glass of lemonade.

La Rotonde is a famous cafe a few blocks from our favorite hotel.

One afternoon several years ago, Joe and I met his internet friend Per Thomas and Per's wife Elodie at a cafe near our hotel.  We sat outside for perhaps two hours.


Rachel and Per in conversation

 When the waiter began putting tablecloths and dinnerware out, we moved to an inside table for several hours more, dining and talking and having a wonderful evening.  No waiter hovered over us urging us to have more to drink or eat or asking if we wished to have the check.  That might be customary in the USA but we did not experience that in any of the cafes.  Of course, we don't dine in expensive places favored by gourmands - - not our style or preference.

The first time I went to Paris was sometime in the 1980s, in February - - because Air France offered a fare so cheap that one would be foolish to refuse it.  Off I went, on my own.  My seatmate was a female employee of the US federal government of business travel.  We compared ticket prices - because her visit was on business for the USA, she was obligated to fly on US flag carriers - - in her case it was Delta Airlines.  Same plane, same flight, two radically different prices.  Mine was under $300; her's was over $800.  What a strange world.  The airline I will take this summer is again Air France, but the round-trip fare is $1,702!  But the return flight is on the gigantic A380 airplane - so big that boarding is done from two gates (it's a double-decked plane).

Reflection of a massive A-380 at Charles DeGaulle Airport

I stayed in a hotel recommended by Sam, the travel agent at Universal Travel.  It was near the Arc de Triomphe in a quiet residential neighborhood.  In the breakfast room, I heard spoken English, German, Spanish, French, and Italian.  The breakfast choices were equally varied:  Croissants and pastries, yes; but also eggs soft- and hard-boiled; cold cuts and sliced cheese; coffee, tea, milk, juices; muesli and oatmeal; and no American cereals.  I recall that after eating a variety of things, I made myself a sandwich and wrapped it in my bandanna scarf for lunch.  Was there also fresh fruit?  Probably.  And probably also yogurt - it's been available in every breakfast room I've visited.

A more modest breakfast at Hotel Atelier Montparnasse.

On that first visit, I was introduced to the underground Metro and the RATP buses that criss-cross Paris.  The Metro might be quick, but the buses gave me windows for watching the passing scene.  Of course, I visited the big attractions in my brief time:  the massive and confusing Louvre (trying to find Mona Lisa and certain paintings was daunting); the astoundingly huge (to me) and impressive Notre Dame (I had researched French gothic church architecture for my high school term paper); the Musee de Cluny, which celebrated medieval art and, surprising to me, featured Roman antiquities as well.   I also learned that Parisian restaurants (not cafes) open for dinner around 7:30 pm - - I probably showed up before 7 and remember wandering around in the cold and dark February evening for a while.

Best of all, I discovered French parks, especially the large, tree-filled Luxembourg Gardens, with its many and varied parts.  There are quiet paths lined with chairs.

And conversation over something to drink or eat or both, in the cafe next to the Senate building.

comfortable chair, umbrella for shade, quiet & efficient waiter







And, who could ignore the summertime joy of a small sailboat on the pond behind the palace.

 

Rent the little boat, put it in the water, give it a push with the long stick, hope for a good wind, and run around the pond for another push, to continue the sailing fun.   As a mother, I wonder how many children fall in.


I'll end with a recent (2007) photo of my husband enjoying the sun's warmth on a June afternoon in the beautiful Luxembourg Gardens.




Pen Mar Revisited

Once in a great while I get to visit the past.  Last Tuesday's hike was on the AppalachianTrail in Maryland.  And it started at the Mason-Dixon Line (the ancient border between Maryland and Pennsylvania) at a tiny community called "Pen Mar".  Now long ago, when I was a small child, I and my two brothers (Jonnie and Charlie) would spend a week or two there.  Aunt Corona and her husband, Benny, owned a small vacation house with a great screened porch (another family connection:  my parents' wedding reception was at that little house).

Now the porch has been walled in and apparently is an integral part of the house.  The porch is on the West side of the house, and had a half-wall that was fully enclosed with screening from there to the ceiling.  It had wood-slat blinds that rolled up in the day and down at night.  We children slept out there with all the strange nighttime noises that we didn't hear in our suburban Bethesda bedrooms:  cricketsand buzzing insects, owls hooting, dogs barking.

Next to my aunt's home was the house of Benny's brother Charlie and his wife, Cecile.  This one is just as I remembered it.  Even the blue paint.  And there were also Elsa and Sam, our cousins; and their cousins, Linda, Louise and Richard - tho I'm not sure of the boy's name. 

Next door to Charlie and Cecile's house was a tennis court.  It was old and ragged even then; the net had holes in it. The grownups didn't play tennis.  But we children really liked having an enclosed place to run around in and to whack balls to each other - having absolutely no knowledge of the rules of tennis.

I have little memory of the rest of the community, except for three very different places. 

One place was the large old building across the road - the Pen Rock Hotel.  The great thing about the hotel is that it had a pool room - not a room with a pool but with a pool table.  Now, the hotel manager didn't like having children in that room.  After all, I was barely able to see over the edge of the table.  But it was deliciously daring to sneak into that room and knock the balls around.

After the 2nd or 3rd summer, the hotel was gone - I recall that it burned down; or perhaps it simply closed its doors.  Most of its visitors, I recall, drove out from Baltimore and many stayed for the summer.  But no longer - - I guess air conditioning kept them at home.

The second place was a little store where we children could spend our pennies deciding which of the great many penny candies to purchase and savor. . . something that I could hold in my mouth and enjoy for a long long time, or something that was to be chewed with a great burst of wonderful sweetness.  According to a recently posted sign, the store was called "Jim's" - selling popcorn, ice cream, sandwiches.  And not just to the local residents.  Pen Mar had been the site of a late-19th century amusement park; trolley lines brought visitors from nearby towns like Waynesboro, PA (where my mother and Aunt Corona had been born and raised).

The last thing I recall about Pen Mar was the spring on the mountainside.  Aunt Corona really liked the taste of the spring water (I didn't - it tasted too much of iron), and so we'd walk there with buckets to carry back to the house.  What I really liked was the walk:  short distance down the curving road to the railroad track, then along the track to a footpath that went down the mountain to the spring.  I was always fascinated that water came from other than a spigot - why was there water inside the mountain?  what forced it out? and how come it was so heavy in those buckets when you could see clear through it? 

I don't know whether the spring is still there.  However, in talking with Charles Trite, a long-time Pen Mar resident who stopped to chat with us, he confirmed my memory of it and other things.  The spring is called Glen Afton.  Driving to Pen Mar we passed the lake at Fort Ritchie - I've great memories of the lake and the pier but had forgotten all about the large, elegant bathhouse next to it.  We passed Camp Louise which is still in operation.  We passed signs leading to the town of Blue Ridge Summit, where we'd go to church on Sunday.  The very short visit revived good memories with people I loved so much but who are long gone. 

It was a very nice morning, and a very lovely day for a long walk in the woods.

Annual visit to the Island that has captured my heart

We returned home on Wednesday.  Before I forget them, I need to list some things that I found memorable.  First, unfortunately, the negatives.

1.  I lost my CapOne credit card at the Publix supermarket where we bought groceries for the week ahead.  I must have set it down on the counter when I signed the little credit card machine, and forgotten to pick it up.  Fortunately, the desk clerk at the hotel gave me a phone no. for CapOne; I phoned and cancelled the card.  And just used the other card for the rest of the visit.

2.  When we rented the car, it turned out to be a black one with a black interior - - a bit hard to figure out how all the dashboard implements work when one cannot see in the darkness.  And there was no owner's manual to aid me.   So Joe decided he would drive, having more confidence.  Which worked well - - he could drive and I could navigate.



Why is this car dirty?  We had a rain shower on the first morning, followed by strong winds that blew sand all over our wet car.

3.  When we returned the car, I had to make sure the rental agency knew that the credit card had been replaced.  But the original estimate was missing.  Joe thought the rental agency's driver took it; I thought it was still in the glove compartment.  No matter.  I remember what the original estimate was, and the final cost was about $4 less.

4.  No really interesting shells this year.  There were lots and lots of the large bronze bi-valve shells that are brittle and frequently covered with barnacles.  There were also more dead crabs and more coconuts, fewer of the sea urchins that covered the area last year.

But those were far outweighed by the postives.



1.  Touring the Bailey Homestead Tract.  Well, really, it was not the whole 28 acres - that is still jungle - overgrown with vines and impenetrable without a machete.  But we learned something of the problems faced by Sanibel Captiva Conservation Foundation (SCCF) who bought the property to extend wildlife habitat and remove invasive exotic plants.  And we got to tour the old homestead.  SCCF intends to use the property as both a museum and interpretive center.  And the Native Plant Nursery will be moved to this site.  I have lots of photos of the house to post.

This is the house after the first set of changes - the porch and dormer window

SCCF has rebuilt the steps, new screens on the porch, painted that nice green, based on analysis of the old paint.

2.  Wednesday's sunrise was brilliant but cold with periodic brief sprinkles.  Very very windy.  The great surprise was when we turned away from looking southeast at the sunrise back toward the land.  A great rainbow arced over the island.   I have a great  photo of Joe with the fading rainbow.



The rainbow at dawn over the island.

3.  An osprey standing right at the shoreline as waves washed over its talons.  After a moment, it took off and flew low over the waves, occasionally dipping down so its talons were in the water- - not to grasp a fish, for the talons were not extended but were drooping backwards.

4.  For lunch one day I ordered a very good panini from Jerry's.  We took the food down to the beach for a little picnic.  Big mistake.  Gulls began to gather, then to squawk and beat their wings.  I tried to keep an eye on them but neglected to look over my shoulder.  A brazen creature swooped down and grabbed part of my sandwich out of my hand!!  Unfortunately for it, most of his loot broke up and fell into the sea.  That set off a minor squabble among several of the greedy critters.   But all he got was part of the bread, so I was left with an open-face sandwich.  The question:  Is it safe to eat?   I decided that the odds were favorable, and I finished the sandwich.

5. On Thursday morning we discovered a half-dozen or more crab traps along our stretch of the beach . . . likely ripped from the sea by Wednesday's storm.  One or two of the traps had some very nice looking blue crabs - - but all were dead, or at least not moving.  So we left them alone.  Strangely, they remained there through the day we left.  I assumed that the owners of the traps would be concerned, but then realized that they had no way of knowing where the traps went.

Three crab traps were tangled together.

6.  The Sanibel Library has computers available for public use, but only for 1 hour/day.  Joe discovered that the genealogy section has two PCs with no apparent time limit.  He finds a PC much easier to use than the laptops available in the Computer Section.  I thought it was great to not have a deadline.

7.  The Sunday Farmers Market was now the City Hall parking area.  Lots of prepared food - - if we'd arrived on Saturday, this would have been the place to stock the refrigerator for the week.  Mac & cheese with lobster or shrimp.  Barbeque that smelled wonderful.   Apple or other strudel.  Quacamole made right before you, with chips.  Plus traditional vegetables and fruits (the strawberry I ate was as sweet as any I could remember).

Step up for mac & cheese with lobster, shrimp or sausage.

Honey and jam and relish

8.  I've saved the best for last:  Grouper Basket from Schnapper's Hots - - this is three filets of grouper fish, batter-dipped and fried, comes with fries and slaw, tartar sauce and lemon, and is hot and delicious. We bought this three times, with cold sweet lemonade.  Strangely, though, the place is best known for its hot dogs.  But the fish & chips is soooo good! 

But I cannot forget key lime pie, either